Lenore's Cook-Chat

My Mario Mémoire

2006-01-25T12:44:00.000-05:00

He handed me his baggy pants…you could say that I’ve been in situations like this before, but never did it have these implications..and all I could think of was what could I dish up for him tonight. Never been much of a groupie, not even for the Beatles, but I am in love, with food, and his food sings to me! I stirred up a slurry of mouthwatering ideas before it hit me, Black Cherry, Ginger & Red Wine Sauce married with a gorgeous Leg of Lamb. I will use the red wine from his vineyard in Italy. This would easily be a close runner up to the magnificent roast chicken I had prepared for him the night before. It has been a ritual for me to prepare a crispy candied lemon roast chicken and vegetables, served family style on an oversized white porcelain platter for the first meal of every charter. A welcoming, recognizable, succulent bird with crispy skin and sweet lemon accents was all I needed to put the Batali’s at ease.

Aahh, I imagined him bathing those garlic studded slices of lamb through that rich red sauce, one bite after the other, licking his lips. My dreams came true as I served him up a second portion.

I liked his flirtatious style and how better to seduce him than with my favorite food, prickly yet tantalizing, artichokes. I hand carried them from Florida. As I have always said “if you get me on a deserted island just let there be artichokes.” I’ll serve them my favorite way stuffed with cheese soufflé. It becomes obvious to me that on this charter there is just not enough time dedicated to the pleasure of eating all those recipes that my full refrigerator and the overflowing pantry of my mind has to offer. But today, Red Pepper Bisque, creamy, rich and red is the talk of the day and the promise of this recipe to be sent by e-mail completes another satisfied lunch.

A special request and four little helping hands from Leo and Beno, the Batalis 7 and 10 year old chefs in waiting, brought a magic carpet breakfast of ethereal blueberry pancakes that floated from the cook top to our plates. Slathered high with fresh sliced strawberries and whipped cream the boys made sure to start their day with dessert. After breakfast it was time to check the crab pots. Ten, fat Dungeness crab could not resist the enticing snare of last nights leftover Brugal feast. And Mario, I hoped, could not resist the fresh catch that would bait him into a prominent spot in my kitchen. We planned at day bathing in the warm waters of Baranoff Hot Springs. More days like this and I knew I could have my way with him. I could taste him cooking in my galley! Ahh, the thought of cooking side by side with an iron chef. Slicing, dicing and singing my way in the galley to a new rendition of “Fly me to the moon and let me cook among the stars,” left me starstruck.

After sunset we sat at the dining room table for what seemed like hours surrounded by lemon wedges, cocktail and mustard sauces, crusty Italian bread, cold white wine and an ever shrinking ruby mountain of Dungeness crab bodies and claws. It is our ritual on board the MV Jamal to bless the crab before cooking them. We turn them over to stun them, kaboom!, clean them and then toss them into boiling sea salted water. Cleaning them first insures only edibles in the pot. As we toss our shells thankfully “back to the sea” we loosen our belts and make way for a delicious, ooey, gooey chocolate dessert that will paves our way to sweet dreams.

We woke up feeling full, but as I tell our guests there are no fat, calories or cholesterol on board. A nod, a grin and a “Ya sure” smile came across the breakfast bar with eager looks as to what’s next. I love a captive audience! There was definitely excitement in the air. All of Mario’s plans and inspiration for the trip, was about to unfold. Today we would celebrate Susi, his lovely wife, her birthday and some of her favorite things.

This evening the festivities began with a cocktail designed in Susi’s honor. We coined it the “Tini Susi”. In an iced shaker add 2 parts Peach Vodka, because she is a pearl of a girl, and sweet as a peach, next a generous one part of Grand Marnier because she is, and a splash of Pommegranet Juice because she is good for you too! Add a garnish of Candied Orange peel and we all toasted “To know her is to love her!” To show his affection Mario ordered an all you can eat avalanche of Giant Alaskan King Crab and for dessert, there is only way to satisfy her sweet tooth … Chocolate Baked Alaska.

“Any crab leftover, Mario cried before he went to bed,” will be mine, for tomorrow I will make pasta with spices and olive oil. He smiled, said goodnight and licked his lips.

The day Mario took a turn in the galley took first place on my palates registrar. I took his instruction and mise en place (a French term referring to having all the ingredients necessary for a dish to be prepared) my way through habeneros, tomatoes, garlic and crusty breadcrumbs to the most delicious crab spaghetti dish that I have ever tasted. I have never seen anyone use as much extra virgin olive oil for as he called it “a quick pasta.”. Two ounces, four ounces, eight then twelve, the bottle was gone, in went the peppers, garlic, tomatoes, basil, parsley, the spaghetti, and then the reason for it all, a marriage of King and Dungeness tossed together in the pan and then up in the air. Finished with a handful of crunchy breadcrumbs, it was love at first bite. And for dessert, sweet perfection again danced on our palates, this time we kissed the night with a Nectarine Poached in White Wine, Bay Leaf and Vanilla Bean snuggled in a cloud of Grand Marnier Sabayon.

As is his ritual when he really likes something, Mario began the next day with a breakfast antipasto of cold crab pasta, leftover from the night before. I love a chef that loves his own jokes and his own food, but for the rest of us, Mario’s eldest son Beno scrambled eggs, browned sausage and insisted on warm leftover fruit crumble. Soon after breakfast I heard snorts and grunts coming from the red haired, pony tailed bear laying port side down on the couch. I can only imagine his snoring to be like the Beatles singing off key…only more endearing, and I am sure more snuggly than your typical star of iron chef and food network fame.

Catching a freezer full definitely put an iron clad, clincher as to what would take center stage on tonight’s dinner table. Perfectly grilled, big white flakes of simple sweetness. Fresh caught Halibut by no other name! With so much halibut on board it did not surprise me when Mario claimed his rights to prepare a delicious addition to lunch. Citrus crusted bread crumbs stuffed the halibut in crispy spirals, and then baked in a good bath of EVOO (extra virgin olive oil). This became my second favorite dish of the trip.

On our way to Tracy Arm Glacier, it dawned on me that I’d better hurry and run intereference with anyone eating the leftovers of Mario’s crab pasta. This dish that he so humbly and effortlessly tossed together would be worthy of a luncheon frittata. Coach Goat Cheese, fresh herbs and eggs would marry well with leftover spaghetti, Dungeness and King Crab, and, to think of it, so do I. As a side dish, Artichoke Stuffed with Cheese Souffle makes for a mouthwatering plate. For this noontime extravaganza it’s the Coach Goat Cheese that brings it all together and the Crab, be it Dungeness or King takes a back seat to the creamy richness of that white gold.

Our mantra “When in Alaska eat seafood”, is happily put on the back burner when tonight a slab of pork, roasted for a king, and we all agree he (Mario) is, fits the bill with a big juicy glass of Mario’s vineyards red wine.

Citrus Halibut with lime, orange and lemon was succulent and fragrant baked in foil packets, but the double chocolate brownie sundae slathered with strawberries and laced with orange liquor was gobbled up at record speed. In Alaska there is a certain breathtaking moment of everyday that puts a smile, a wish and a new hope to tuck away and take back to civilization. For everyone on board it was a toss up as to what made time stand still, perhaps it was the calving of the sheets of ice at Glacier Bay or perhaps it was the glacier ice margheritas, whales or bears. We agreed to disagree and made another batch of iced blue Petron’s.

Reluctantly we made our way to terra firma. Taking a deep breath and trying to hold on to those moments when our days were filled with blowing humpback whales, all the crab we could eat, dancing shoreline bears, clouds of orange sabayon, bald eagles sailing in the sky and seemingly miles to go before we were to ever reach our next dessert or destination.
Life is bitter sweet, and we knew no matter how much fun we were having it must come to an end because our eyes are bigger than our stomachs and those baggy pants he handed me, if we kept on this path for much longer, would end up fitting like a glove. So we all say our goodbyes and move on to the next port, the next morsel, just as delicious, just as satisfying, just as sweet.

Magic Carpet Ride

2005-06-30T14:43:00.000-04:00

“The art of entertaining is knowing who to call”

My friend, Michael Holland did just that… and when two creative people come together and start planning and event, literally the sky’s the limit! We created an evening that consisted of multiple layers. Upon arrival, each guest embarked on a magic carpet ride, full of flavor, savoure, surprises and fulfillment. I can assure you delicious food, stunning presentations and top flight, gracious, smiling service. It is my passion and my privilege to ensure each and every one of my clients feels like a million dollars!

Here’s a special link to a web page created by Michael.

http://www.nichemastery.com/2005StarParty.html

Chutney Raddichio

2004-07-06T10:28:00.000-04:00

Summer in Florida harvests a multitude of sins, and sinfully delicious as it may taste, the mango is, to say the least, one of them right in your own back yard. By the time the season is over you’ve had your fill and wish to not see them again for a long, long time. Like long lost relatives, you love to see them come and love to see them go. Mangos fall and find their way to restaurant menus and kitchen counters by the way of produce delivery, or my favorite, neighborhood roadside stands. If, you’re not the one bendin’ over, pickin’ up and baggin’, then four for a buck, is the way to go. You can’t beat it! My favorite, Mango Chutney, has been dancing in my kitchen with chiles, ginger, and limes for a month now, and sacheting its sweet and sour zip-locked way to the refrigerators of friends and strangers. Anyone who will adopt a bag is my friend now! This is the time of year I always think about my friend Mark Nevins. He and I were attached at the hip at my restaurant in Tacoma, Washington. As I was harmonizing to the tune of our pianist and running the wheel, (restaurant talk for organizing the distribution of plates of food from the line to the tables) you could hear me sing songs of ingredients or special orders ie; Chutney! Raddichio! Endive! Gremolata! Parsley! Basil! Mark would find the garnish, and wipe the plates and send them up to the second floor. My name, of endearment for Mark, and of family and friends, from that time on was always “Chutney Raddichio”, “Chutney” for short. Another delicious way I experience mangos is the fruit pedicure. I travel to Boca to relax into the creamy, pinkish orange mango puree massaged into my feet with a key lime loofa sponge. Pampering myself after a day of being on my feet making chutney, is my way of “just desserts.” My feet never tasted so good.

Strawberries in the Rain

2004-06-21T16:07:00.000-04:00

Have you ever picked strawberries while dancing in the rain? This memory takes me back to Indiana where I picked my first berries, blue, black and red. Mother Nature made a growl that day as we plucked one for the bucket and one for our mouths. "Not supposed to be here" kept echoing sing song from my baby sister April. So racing against time to both that seemed a bottomless pit, we laughed and ate to our hearts content. Slurping rain and berry juice off our chins we realized that you can only get wet once, so we stayed there in the puddles of our youth till darkness and Mom beckoned us home. Today I taste those wet and wild strawberries in every shortcake I make. Strawberry fields forever.

Summer For Me

2004-06-02T18:55:00.000-04:00

It is obvious to me that summer is here. The fact that I am turning once again to my dessert recipes. I realized for the first time that I am a summer dessert person. In the winter I love braised vegetables and cauldren pots of meats, chou croute, lamb shanks and stews, but summer finds me with delighting with the thought of nectarine crumbles, blueberry fools, strawberry shorcakes and raspberry ice creams. I stop at the farmers markets and search out "you pick" signs like they were an offering from above, and when I am out in an orchard or bending down to pick the one for the basket or the one for me I know I'm in heaven. Share with me your favorite summer recipe and lets go and find a field "ripe for the pickin'". We can cook and taste summer together.

What a Night

2004-04-24T02:17:00.000-04:00

Oh what a night, empowering to say the least. I had the pleasure of joining several other women who are professionals in their field, on a panel of "For Women By Women," a women's health program at "Tea at Lily's" sponsored by Holy-Cross Hospital. I demonstrated a couple of recipes that were healthy and fresh, Mediterranean Couscous Salad and Roasted Eggplant Spread.

If you ever have the opportunity to go to one of these events I encourage you to do so. Visit the Holy Cross Auxiliary web site or call 954-351-7804 and request a schedule. The program last night was "Stay Fit For Life," something we are all struggling to achieve. The next program is May 27th and the topic is Osteoporosis. Mark your calendars and I will see you there! Be well, be safe, and if you can't be good, be great!

Nothing Better

2004-04-20T00:41:00.000-04:00

There is nothing better than waking up to a sunny day and realizing that I get to do my favorite thing (cooking) with some of my favorite people for some of my favorite clients. I have taken on a weekly cooking project for a family in Boca (friends of friends) and I provide four meals for them delivered every week. I have never met them eye to eye, but when you begin cooking for someone you get to know them palate to palate. My cooking class schedule is complete and it should be hitting the press tomorro and at your door later this week. Thank you all for your patience, phone calls, sugestions and ideas. The day moves on and I'd better start playing catch-up.

Good Friday

2004-04-09T11:37:00.000-04:00

Good Friday. Good Everyday for me in the kitchen. I have been tip-toeing around in my kitchen for the last couple of months working with someone that was not on the same page of my cookbook. We come from opposite directions on the spectrum. I am self taught and he has gone to culinary school and worked in very structured kitchens. I on the other hand, love the idea of whisking the samba to the beat of a waltz. A new sense of stength and vitality has come over me. I love what I do and do what I love and love the way I do it! It is my passion and my priviledge to cook for all of you. Happy Easter Egg Hunt to you all!

Beautiful Day

2004-04-07T16:06:00.000-04:00

A beautiful day to complete the new cooking class schedule. Weeks have gone by where most of my thoughts and ideas about the new schedule have been formulating in my head with only a few notations on pen to paper. For me to create this masterpiece of ideas without an artists block I have to be fearless in the kitchen of my mind. There isn't anything that would not turn out exactly like I created. Sometimes I am surprised, but that just keeps me where I like to be, always smiliing. I thank everyone for their sugesstions, ideas and support. That's the icing on my cake!